With heavy metal accents, technical knits, futuristic footwear and sheer layers aplenty, the Italian house made a sweet play for women of the digital age.
On Sunday in Milan, Prada joined many of its peers — Chanel, Gucci, Louis Vuitton — and held a dedicated resort show for its latest collection. But unlike the aforementioned luxury houses who favor big-budget trips to exotic locales for their resort outings, Miuccia Prada kept it local, setting up the runway inside the Fondazione Prada Osservatorio (a new exhibition space dedicated to photography) meant to represent "a confrontation between real and manufactured moments." With its mirrored walls and zigzagging linear floor and seating arrangements, the space gave off a modern feel that mimicked that of the clothing.
Being that resort is an in-between season, lightweight layers and transitional outerwear made up the bulk of the collection, but not without plenty of signature Prada touches like sparkly rhinestone embellishments, waist-cinching belts, whimsical prints (in this case, James Jean illustrations of rabbits and florals), asymmetrical button closures, feather-lined cuffs and lots of feminine ruffles. There was a clear focus on utilitarian sportswear, particularly in the nylon track pants and zip-up jackets — the latter, in true Prada fashion, were worn off the shoulder and featured puffy statement sleeves — as well as in the knee-high socks with a futuristic linear print and flat Velcro sneakers. Sherbet shades of pink, peach, lavender and mint made up the cruise-worthy color palette, and the sheer pleated and scalloped skirts, high necklines and coordinating silk separates were easy, breezy and unmistakably Miuccia.
The models were given a fresh-faced beauty look and a matte red lip, accented with youthful braided pigtails that will be delightfully simple to copy this summer. However, the feathered headbands that popped up several times on the runway will be a bit trickier, as they're a cultural appropriation disaster waiting to happen.